Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
